Universal, Genève - A gold plated 'Polerouter' wristwatch on a later bracelet stamped 14K

circa 1960, the signed circular 'crosshairs' champagne dial, 30mm diameter, with gold coloured batons on a textured outer ring, gold coloured hands and centre sweep, signed 28 jewel mechanical automatic 'microtor' movement decorated with 'The Côtes de Genève, number 329805, calibre 218-9, case, 35mm diameter, gold plated bezel and lugs, verso steel, screw down, interior liveried, to an aftermarket slightly tapering Milanese style bracelet terminating in a two stage fold over catch with integral safety clip, stamped HB 14K, weight of bracelet 25g

On November 14, 1954 SAS (Scandinavian Airlines Systems) officially opened their Copenhagen to Los Angeles flights using the polar circle as a shortcut, cutting flight times down to 22 hours from 36. However, flying so near the North Pole required designing new instruments to overcome the unusually strong magnetism present there. SAS developed a new flight navigation system to overcome these extreme magnetic fields and, as Universal Genève was SAS’s official supplier of watches, they were approached to develop a suitable pilot’s watch for the flights. Universal Genève appointed Gerald Genta (who would go on to design some of the industry’s most iconic watches, including Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and Nautilus) to design a watch to commemorate SAS’s polar flights.

The watch was originally called Polarouter and was officially released in 1954 with a price tag similar to that of a Rolex Explorer. A year later, the line was renamed Polerouter, and production in many forms continued until 1969.

Today, the Universal Genève Polerouter remains one of the most desired and still affordable of Genta’s designs and is much sought after by collectors.